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How to stretch your own Canvas Prints
Rolled Canvas with fixtures and fittings

I'm super excited to introduce my new product option!


You can now purchase your rolled canvas supplied with the stretcher bars and fittings you need to stretch the canvas yourself or take to a framers for a reduced cost.


Here's a step-by-step guide written by myself, Dina Perejogina, which will guide you through stretching it yourself ~ saving you some money!

~ Ten Step Guide ~

1. When you place your order for a canvas print rolled with fittings, this is what is included in your package: ​

  • 1 x Rolled Limited Edition Print

  • 4 x Branded Stretcher bars

  • 2 x Branded cross-bars (for print sizes 36” and above)

  • 8 x Large wedges

  • 4 x Small wedges

  • 2 x D-Rings (XXL Prints will be supplied with double screws and D-Rings)

  • 4 x Screws

  • 1 x Wire

  • 4 x Strips of tape to fit  

What's in your package.

2(a). Set up the Stretcher Bars

  • Slot together the stretcher bars as shown in the photo.

  • The lip on the branded stretcher bars when pushed together will be directly under the canvas to create distance. These special raised edges will be the canvas-side.


* The wedges will only put in to the bars later on, after the canvas stapled for tightening.

~ XXL Prints Only ~

2(b). Set up the Cross-bars

  • Before we fit the cross bars, place the stretcher bars canvas-side (special raised edge) down. We will call this side the back.

  • The cross-bars should be fitted perpendicular to the stretcher bars in the slots in the stretcher bars supplied, as shown in the photo.

  • The cross-bars rise slightly above the stretcher bar edges, this should be always on the back, and not facing inside the canvas-side. 


* The wedges will only put in to the bars later on, after the canvas stapled for tightening.


3. Prepare your Canvas

  • Once the stretcher bars are fitted together, it's time to prepare your canvas ready to wrap around.

  • Check the front of the canvas to ensure the signature is straight and the edges are in place, with enough edge to evenly reach around the stretcher bars.


4. Affix your Canvas

  • When your canvas is in the correct position, you will be ready to fix your first staple pin.

  • The first pin is always put in the middle of the stretcher bar of your chosen starting side.

  • Ensuring your canvas is still aligned correctly, stretch the canvas across the bars and affix the next staple pin on the center of the bar opposite the first pin.

  • Check your alignment again, stretch your canvas to one side and add a central staple-pin to this edge and the opposite side as before.

  • You should now have a central pin on each edge of the canvas, stretched over the bars, as seen in the photo.


  • Next, add two staple pins on each side of the existing central pins, approximately 2”-3” apart, as shown in the photo.

  • Continue evenly pinning the edges as above and stop when you have around 3" remaining and each end of each edge, in the corners. this is the allowance needed to fold the corners.


5. Fold the corners

  • Once the canvas is pinned in place with leaving the 3" corner allowance, it's time to fold the corners. My canvases always have copyright text which is a great indicator the bottom of the canvas

  • I recommend when folding, to fold up two at the top down and two at the bottom up of the canvas, as we often pass by the painting and see the edges, it’s good to have flat edges with no folds showing.

  • The slideshow below shows you how to fold the corners and cut the excess with the fold only showing on the bottom or on the top of the canvas image.

  • Then pin the corners as you did before~ see photo reel tutorial.

6. Wedges

  • When you have pinned your canvas corners, you can then fit your wedges, using a small hammer to tap them in.

  • It's important that you put the wedges in a specific order. Starting at any corner and going clockwise, put in one wedge at a time, tapping it in gently. 

  • Then, continuing clockwise, place the next four wedges the other way as shown in the photos below.

  • For XXL prints with cross-bars, use the small wedges following the same way as before going clockwise.


7. Trim the excess

  • Using scissors, take away some excess canvas, if needed, to create space for the screws and D-rings.


8. Fit the wire

  • The wire and D-rings need to be approximately a third of the way down the side of the canvas. Measure with a ruler and mark where you will place your D-rings with a pencil.

  • Screw the D-rings in with a screwdriver as seen in the photo.

  • The wire needs to have a slight give, so when hung, it creates an angle of 10-15 degrees. This makes it easier to handle when hanging on the walls.

  • It is very important to ensure that the wire will not show above the top of the canvas when hung, and to allow enough space for it to stay below the top of the canvas, in case with time the painting drops a bit lower.

  • When securing your wire, tie an additional few knots on each end to keep it strongly fixed in place.


9. Tape

  • The tape I supply is high quality, water activated tape to fix in place. It is long lasting without tackiness with age, and stays dried and secure on the back of your canvas.

  • Start with small parts of tape, and once activated with water, and attach over the D-rings. This also helps you get used to handling the tape.

  • Then, with the tape dry, check that each side fits before water-activating the tape. 

  • Wet and place each length of tape one at a time.

  • You’re very welcome to cut around the copyright writing if you wish, so it can be seen rather than hidden under the tape, as seen in the photo below.


10. Affix your certificate of Authenticity

  • Staple pin your Certificate of Authenticity on to the lower right back of your canvas, as shown in the photo.

  • Well done! You have now stretched your very own canvas. Enjoy your artwork! To care for your print, please see my 'How To' guide here.

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